madson



May `26, 1925.

M Re, 16.082 A. MADsoN SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME xoriginalriled Nav. 26, 1917 2 sheets-sheet 1 May 26, 1925.

A. MADSON SHOE AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME 2 sheets-Sheet 2original'Filed Nov. 26, 1917 Gil shoe to lessen the cost of pro ReissuedMay 26, 1925.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

ANOS HADSON, 0F I`PONTIAC, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNQR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, T0NORWAY WELT PATENTS TRUST, A TRUST ESTATE.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Original No. 1,265,100, dated lay 7, 1918, Serial No. 204,079,ledNovember 26, 191?. Application for reissue led lay 6,1920. Serial No.379,424.

T o all whom t may conce-rn:

Be it known that I, AMos MADSON, a subject of the King of Norway, and aresident of Pontiac, county of Livingstone, in the State of Illinois,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Methodsof Making Same, of which the fol.

lowing is a specification.

The present invention appertains to footwearf, and aims to provide anovel and improved construction and assemblage of the component parts ofa shoe, boot, sandal or other article of footwear, the term shoe beingemployed herein for convenience, to designate broadly any article offootwear.

One of the objects of the invention is to provide a shoe in which theupper is seamed to the sole in such a manneras to .secure a Shoe ofH,great strength, adapted to-keep ifts shape and which 1s comfortabletothe oot.

Another object is to provide a shoe 'in which the seam securin sole isarranged in suci a-manner as be covered, in order to present a neatappearance and a smooth inner foot-supporting surface.

Another object is to provide a shoe in which the upper is secured to thesole at the fore part and heel in such a manner as to sec'ure maximumstrength while maintaining .a neat appearance. 4

Another object is to provideja sole which -is simple in construction,furnishes strong attachments for the fastening of the upper thereto, andpermits such attachments to be made in a simple and eilicient manner.

Another oblect is the provision. of awelt shoe eliminating theA use of asepaf rate insole as customarily employed, and otherwise improving andfacilitating the construction and assemblage of dparts of the ucton, andat thev same time to render the shoe more flexible and eilicient.

A further object of the invention is the provision of novel means forjoining the up.n per and its lining with the sole in such a manner as tomake a substantial and' secure construction. i

Another object of the invention is the provision of novel means foruniting the heel, upper and sole to provide an effective and practicalconstruction.

the upper to the l 4 Figure Gis 'of Figure 4 showing. the completed heelThe invention also aims to provide a shoe of the nature indicated, whichwill permit of repairs being readily made, to resole or apply a new soleto the shoe readiliy and perfectly, either by stitching, ypegging ornailing operations.

Accordingly another'object of this invention is to provide a novelmethod of making a shoe which will accomplish the above objects and soas to cheapen the manufacture and repair thereof.

lWith the foregoing and other objects in View, which will appear as thedescription proceeds, the invention resides in the combination andarrangement of parts and in the details of construction hereinafterdescribed and claimed, it being understood that changes can be made inthe precise embodiment of the invention-herein disclosed, within thescope of what is claimed, without departing from the spirit of theinvention.

lhe .invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein:

ready for the attachment of the upper and showing the shank thereon.Figure 2 is a cross section on the line 2-2, of Figure l. y

Figure 3 is a cross section on the same line showing the first steps inattaching the upper and sole together at the fore part.

Figure iv is a fragmental bottom plan view illustrating the attachmentofthe upper to the heel seat of the sole.

Figure lines as in Figure 2 and 3, showing the completed fore partconstruction.

a cross section on the line 6--6 construction.

Figure 7 is a side elevation of the finished product or shoe.

5 is a cross section on the same i Figure 8 is a sectional detailshowing one i of the ste s of making a shoe in accordance with anot ierembodiment of this invention.

Figure 9 is similar View 'showing a' further stage of completion of thesaine.I

Figure 10 is a fragmental cross section showing still another embodimentof this invention.

In carrying out the invention, the sole 1 '(Which in the particularillustrated embodiments of this invention forms an outsole to which theupper and lining are directly attached as hereinafter described) isic'utto CTI suitable shape being provided at its rear or heel end with a:heel seat2 of reduced Width, forming the shoulders 3 between the shankportion and heel seat. There is thus provided a sole having a marginalextension along the fore 'part and a marginal recess at the heel` Thesole is channeled or slit around its margin from one shoulder 3 to theother, to provide apart which is turned up to provide a flexibleupstanding lip 4 along the inner edge ofthe sole. The lip 4 extends be-rtween the shoulders 3 and this leaves a feather 7 of reduced thicknessalso extending around the fore part from shoulder .to shoulder 3. Thelip 4 is in the form of a flexible flap which is turned upwardly fromthe margin of the sole, and provides an upstanding lip inside of andabove the -feather 7, thereby forming a shoulder at and along thejunction of the lip 4 and the feather 7. lhe lip 4 may terminate in afeather' edge as shown at the left, Figure 2, or it may be blunt asshown at the right.

The sole is provided with a groove 8 along the junction of and betweenthe marginal portion or feather 7 of the sole and the lip 4, said groovebeing co-extensive in length with the feather 7 and lip4 and extendingfrom one shoulder 3 to the other around the fore part.

The sole is further prepared by cutting a channel 9 upwardly andoutwardly therein in its lower surface, said channel being locatedinwardly of the feather 7 and being.

co-extensive in length therewith. The channel 9 extendsl upwardl andoutwardly toward the groove 8 an is provided with a groove 10 spacedinwardly of and ymay be in substantially the same horizontal plane asthe groove 8 to receive the stitching forming the inseam. The channel 9forms a flexible lip 11 underneath the sameprojecting inwardly. g I

The upper 12 is provided with a lining 13 therein, aud in assembling theupper and its lining with the sole, they are placed over a suitablelast, shaped or grooved to receive the lip 4. In actual practice thesole is tempered and tacked on the last bottom as is usual in shoemaking. The feather 7 is bent or folded backI against the bottom sur-`face of the sole, as seenin'Figure 3; in actual practice the feather 7andlip 4 on the tempered sole may be prelilninarily turned back` whichmay be accomplished `with any suitable lip turning device well known inthe art. The upper (and lining) is then assembled on the last and lastedover the sole and against the feather and lip and the shoulder formed'attheir junction in a manner accomplished by those skilled in the art. Themarginal portions of the upper and its lining are placed snugly aroundthe gether of the upper and the sole.

The seaming may be performed in a usual inseam sewing machine or welter.Accordingly a -welt 15 in inverted position, is passed around the uppersnugly thereagainst with its lower edge portion at that side of theupper opposite to the groove 8, and the upper or outer edge portion ofthe welt extending upwardly. The welt, upper, lining and soleare thenfastened together by means of stitching 16 or other securing meansextending through the welt, upper and lining within. the groove 8 andhorizontally through the sole between the grooves 8 and 10, the

channel 9 permitting of such sewing through the parts as described. Thewelt and the lasted upper' (including the lining) are, therefore,secured to the sole along the shoulder formed betweenv the lip 4 andfeather 7 and in and along the groove 8, by an inwardly and downwardlydirected seam, the stitches (especially Where a chain stitch is used)lying along the groove 10 at the. bottom of the channel 9, while thestitches at the Welt side press the Welt and upper irm'ly into thegroove 8. The upper and lining are cut ofi' immediately below the Welt15, at the point X, to

remove the surplus material, and the feather 7 is released bywithdrawing the tacks 14, thus permitting. the feather to be moved backinto former shape, this being accomplished in any suitable manner, as bya turnlng or setting device. The stitching or s e- -curing means 1Gprovides anu inseam which is coveredv by the welt 15, and the loweredges of the upper 12 and lining 18 and inneredge of the Welt 15,forming a bead` which'is seated snugly in the groove 8. The

inner edge of the welt is thus secured .toi

the sole through the upper and lining from below, and the weltextendsupwardly and outwardly over the inseam or securing means to coverthe same and provide a neat finish.

' The upperl 12 and lining-13 are' then cut j or slit at Y, adjacent tothe shoulders 3,

whereby the lower marginal portions thereof can'be turned along themarginal recess to overlap the bottom surface of the heel seat 2, as at,17, and said marginal portion Vof the heel or counter portion of theupper is then secured to the heel seat 2 by means of tacks 18,or thelike, driven through the portion 17 and into ther'heel seat; The counter19, which is disposed between the upper 12 and lining 13, is alsofastened to the klower surface of the heel seat by the tacks 18.

, thus covering the portion 17. The forward or shank edge of the lift 20is beveled or chamfered at its upper surface, as at 22, to form a betterand stronger connection with the sole, and the beveled surface 22 titssnugly against the sole, the shoulders 3 and heel ends of the welt 15being beveled, as at to fit the beveled surface 22, thus providing aneat joint at the side'edges, where the parts are exposed.

The welt 15 is then turned and sewed down on the feather 7 by means ofstitching 24 or other securing means extending through the welt andfeather, the seam 24 running around the fore part and also extendingthrough the heel or rear ends of the feather 7 welt 15 and lift 20 wherethey or securing means 2A back far enou have the lap or scarf joint,thus uniting said parts together rmly above the breast of the heel. Inthus extending the stitching i, it y not only unites the welt andfeather but also unites the shank edge of the lift 20 with said featherand welt. 1

The shank 25 which is placed on the sole 1 (when the same is tackedonthe last or- .*brought flush' with the lower surface lining after thelast has been withdrawn after the application of the welt edge seam 24)is then stitched on vthe sole by means of stitching 26 or other securingmeans passing through the shank and sole, said stitching or securingmeans 26 being within the chan nel 9 or its groove 10 throughwhich thestitching 16 also extends. The lip 11 is then of the sole by cementingor other fastening means, and it is preferable to run stitching 27 orother securing means through the upper,

and lip 4. This makes a secure connection between the lip and verticalportion of the upper above the feather 7, and said lip provides ashoulder or abutment against which the upper is secured. The lip 4 canbe made relatively narrow, and Vpressed down flat as shown in Figure 5,but it can have a feather edge to overlap the lining and receive thepressure of the foot.

Finally, the heel 28, composed of lifts, isf'astened bynails, pegs orother ysecuring means to the lift 20 and adjacent parts. This completesthe shoe, except for the usual finishing operations which need not befurther described.

vIn the embodiment shown in Figures 8 forms a desirable extension,

and 9, the welt 15 is omitted, and the feather 7 is made thicker and thegroove 8 therefore deeper. In this embodiment the feather 7 has aflexible lip 30 projecting inwardly kand overhanging the groove 8',which can be'bent back upwardly and outwardly, as seen in Figure 8, toopen the groove, when the upper 12 and lining-13 are stitched withinlthe groove 8, abovedescribed. Then, when the upper an lining aretrimmed or cut olf immediately below the stitching 16, as seen in Figure9, the lip 30 can springlback into place over the groove, to close t esame and provide a neat finish, thus concealing the seam and coveringthe groove.

1n Figure 10 of the drawings, parts hereinbetore described have beendesigned by numerals previously used, with the suiix. a, In this form ofthe invention, the welt seam 24* is used to holdl the lip 30'* andthe-lining 13* to the sole 1. This construction produces a lstrongershoe than that delineated in Figure 9, but its use is optional.

It will be seen, from the' foregoing, that the present inventionproduces, lined t welt shoe re uiring no occasion for the use of aninsole, t an equivalent for an insole. The welt or stitched down processembodying this inventioncan be used with lips of various,- forms, or thevlips vcan be cut 0E when not wanted. l The invention, therefore,accomplishes its objects.- The shoe is not onlyA simple in constructionbut has great strength and is arranged to keep vits sha e. A stronginseam is provided in view o the fact that this inseam is not through achannel lip but through the body of the sole. However, the seam is soarranged that the inside of the shoe is left smoothandfree of tacks.Accordingly this shoe combines the advantageous features of the McKayshoe having i great strength of seam, and of the usual Goodyear welt inproviding a smooth inte-k by the stitching 16, as

e lip 4 meeting all the demands asy rior surface and sha eliness. Theupstandc ing lips merge into t upper; accordingly, therev is formed acavity providing a comfortable rest for the foot, providing a coverfurthe seam and presenting a structure .which is neat in appearance. Thefeather which, when covered by the welt, gives the appearance of a weltshoe. In view of the fact that this welt merges into the upper, aneat-appear" ance is presented. The construction of the heel seat withthe feather permits'the upperf out` along the fore part edges to beturned thereby not only;

and turned in at the heel, providing a strong shoe but a neatappearance.

also presenting The method employed is not only simple and economical,but permlts the operations to be performed by machines `now exszl iistence without requiring even the provision of extra attachments.Moreover the method follows in a' general way the detail operationscommon in the manufacture of Mc- Kay and welt shoes; accordingly thedeparture from present practice is not radical .in the sense as torequire reorganization of the factory. v

It is obvious thatl various changes may be made in details ofconstruction and operation without departing from the spirit of thisinvention; it is, therefore,lto be under# stood that this invention isnot to'be limited to the specific details shown and described.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is:

1. In al shoe, a one part sole having an upper channel at its margin anda downwardly opening channel spaced inwardly from the first mentionedchannel, an upper...

having its lower edge fitting in the first mentioned channel, a welt,securing means extending through the welt, upper and sole between saidchannels, the welt .extending upwardly over the securing means andresting on the sole, and securing means fastensecuring means extendingthrough and lip to fasten them together.

ing the welt on the sole.

2. In a shoe, a sole having its margin cut to provide a wing of reducedthickness and an upturned lip, said sole having a channel between saidwing and lip and v a second channel spaced inwardly from the aforesaidchannel and opening downwardly, an upper resting against said lip, awelt, securing means extending through the welt, upper and sole betweensaid channels, the welt being turned outwardly over said feather, and

securing means. fastening the welt on said feather.

3. In a shoe, the combinationI of elements' including specified in claim2 andV further' the upper 4. In a shoe, a sole having its margin cuttoprovide an upper channel and havingr a channel spaced inwardly from theaforesaid channel and opening downwardly, an upper fitting in the firstmentioned channel, securf reduced ing means fasteningthe upper-to .thesole and extending between said channels, `a shank on the sole, andsecuring Ie'ans fastening the shank on the sole and extending into thesecond 'mentioned channel.

5. In a shoe, a sole having. a heel seat, anl upper having its counterportion turned,

under `the heel seat, a welt secured `to. the upper and fitting onthe-sole in front of the heel seat,` a lift secured to the heel seatunderneath the turned under portion ofthe upper, and securing meansfastening the Welt on the sole and also fastening the shank portion ofthe lift to the sole.

6. In a shoe, a sole having a heel seat of width providing shoulders, an11p- .the upper and welt, a lift secured to the heel seat underneath theturned under portion of the upper, the shank edge of the lift and. saidshoulders of the sole having a lap joint, and securing means fasteningthe welt on the solel and extending rearwardly vto also engage the liftat said joint. i

7. In a shoe, a sole having a heel seat of reduced width providingshoulders, and having a marginal channel extendingv forwardly from saidshoulders, an upper ,having portions fitting in said channel and aportion turned under the heel seat in rear of said shoulders, a weltsecured to the upper within said channel and turned outwardly over thesole, a heel`lift secured to the heel seat underneath the turned underportion of' the upper, the shank edge of the lift having an upperbeveled surface, the sole and welt being beveled at said shoulders tooverlap said beveled surface'of the lift, and Securing means fasteningthe welt to the sole and extending rearwardly to engage through thebeveled portion of the lift.

8. A shoe, comprising, a sole having the' body thereof formed to providea thinner feather and an inside lip with a groove along their junction,an upper lasted against said inside lipand said groove, and a linev ofstitches securing said upper to said sole along and within said grooveand from the outside of said upper, adapted to leave said featherextending beyond the attached upper in order to provide an extensionedge. A

' 9.' shoe, comprising, a sole having the body thereof reduced to forman external feather and a groove therealong, an upper,

a turned welt, a seam securing said weltl and groove and from theoutside of said upper, and a seam for. securing thei outer edge of saidturned welt to said sole.

10. The methodvof making non-turned shoes, comprising, lasting the upperagainst aidistinct marginal groove formed along the sole and inside ofand above a feather thereon, and forcing and securing the lasted upperto the sole along and inside of said groove.

11. The method of making shoes, comprising, turning a feather on thesole over and. upon the sole bottom, lasting the upper against the'feather, securing the lasted up- `per and an inverted welt to the solealong and labove the feather, turning the `Welt over the feather, andsecuring the outer edge of the welt to the edge of the feather.

12. The lmethod of making shoes, comprising, turning a feather on thesole over iio ian

and upon the sole bottom, lasting the upper the feather, lastin vper andan inverted Welt tothe sole along and above the feather, turning backthe feather, and turning the welt over the feather.

13. The method of making non-turned shoes, comprising, turning back afeather on the sole bottom Ato open a distinct marginal groove formedabove and inside of g the upper against the feather and securing th'elasted upper to the sole along and inside of the groove.

14. The method of making non-turned shoes, comprising, turning back afeather on the sole bottom to open a distinct marginal groove formedabove and inside of `the feather, lasting the upper against the feather,securing the lasted upper to the sole along and inside of the groove,trimming the secured upper along the groove, and turning back thefeather.

15. The method of making shoes, comprising, turning a feather on thesole over and upon the sole bottom, lasting the upper together with itslining against the feather, and securing the lasted upper and lining Yto the sole along and above the feather.

1G. The method of making shoes, comprising, turning a feather on thesole over and upon the sole bottom, lasting the upper together with itslining against the junction of the feather with the sole, and securingthe lasted upper and lining to the sole along and against the junction.-

17. The method of making shoes, comprising,` turning a feather on thesole over and upon the sole bottom, inside of and above the feather,lasting the upper together with its lining against the junction of thefeather and the lip, and Securingthe lasted upper and lining to the solealong and against the junction. 18. The method of making shoes,comprising, securing the edge of the upper along the entire fore part ofthe sole above a feather thereon, turning the edge of the upper inwardlyover a marginally reduced part of the sole at the heel, applying a liftto the heel seat over the edge of the turned over upper, and joining thelift with the ends of the feather at the breast.

19. The method of making shoes, comprising, securing the edge of theupper along the fore part to the margin of the sole, turning the edge ofthe upper inwardly over a marginally reduced part-at the heel, applyinga lift to the heel seat over the edge of the upper, and joining the liftwith the sole margin.

v 20. The method of making shoes, com-l prising, securingv the edge ofthe upper along the fore part to the margin of the sole, turning theedge of the upper inwardly over a marginally reduced part of the sole atthe heel, applying a lift to the heel 'seat over the edge of theupper,and joining the lift With the ends lof the sole margin at the breast.

Signed at St. Louis, State of Missouri, this 4th day of May, 1920. u

AMOS MADSON.

turning a. 11p

